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Enter AAP Magazine 54 Nature: Landscape, Wildlife, Flora & Fauna
Enter AAP Magazine 54 Nature: Landscape, Wildlife, Flora & Fauna
Maurice Pellosh
Pellosh devant son studio
Maurice Pellosh
Maurice Pellosh

Maurice Pellosh

Country: Congo
Birth: 1951 | Death: 2023

Maurice Bidilou was born on August 15, 1951, in Bouansa (formerly Le Briz). At the age of 16, he moved to Pointe-Noire to live with his brother. After taking on a few odd jobs, his uncle encouraged him to learn a trade. This led Maurice to a 19-month apprenticeship at "Studio Jeanot Père," which he began in exchange for a bunch of bananas, a demijohn of wine, a chicken, and 20,000 CFA francs. During this time, he mastered the art of being a portrait photographer, a craft that would become his lifelong passion.

At the time, it was fashionable to have a nickname. Maurice explained that around the age of 11, he played with letters and came up with the word "Pellosh," giving it an American-sounding ending. Long before becoming a photographer, his friends and family were already calling him Pellosh—a name that seemed to foreshadow his destiny. [NB: In French, the word péloche (which sounds the same as Pellosh) means "film."]

In December 1973, Maurice Bidilou opened his own photo studio, "Studio Pellosh," near the main market in a bustling neighborhood. The studio remained open until 2016. It quickly became a success. In addition to offering traditional ID photos, "Studio Pellosh" gained a reputation as the go-to place for families, couples, friends, and "sapeurs" eager to immortalize their happiness and symbols of success on film.

In the evenings, Pellosh frequented bars, dance halls, and concerts, mingling with the Congolese youth reveling in their newfound independence. Across from Studio Pellosh, the bar-dancing club "Chez Fofo" became his favorite weekend hangout.

During the 1970s, the Sape movement—The Society of Ambiance-Makers and Elegant People—was in full swing. The clientele of Pointe-Noire sought carefully crafted souvenir portraits to share with loved ones, often ordering enlargements. These photos became elaborate compositions featuring symbolic accessories of wealth (transistor radios, mopeds, books, cigarettes) and beauty (bags, sunglasses, hats, suits). Artificial lighting allowed for photography at any time of day or night.

Starting in 1985, the disappearance of black-and-white development products in Congo forced Pellosh to transition to color photography. A decade later, the rise of digital photography signaled the inevitable end of his studio.

Maurice passed away on May 25, 2023, surrounded by decor from his former studio, dozens of Kodak boxes filled with negatives, and photographic equipment. His death, at the age of 71, was caused by severe malaria and a hip fracture.

He leaves behind his wife, Jackie, and their six daughters—Mauricette, Aude, Inès, Alida, Ghéraude, and Carmelle—as well as 17 grandchildren, all of whom are proud and dedicated to preserving Maurice’s legacy. Since 2020, this work has been championed by Emmanuèle Béthery, who has brought new recognition to Maurice's artistry.

 

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As he wryly said, "My photographs don't go below the surface. I have great faith in surfaces. A good one is full of clues." After guest-editing the April 1965 issue of Harper's Bazaar, Avedon quit the magazine after facing a storm of criticism over his collaboration with models of color. He joined Vogue, where he worked for more than twenty years. In 1992, Avedon became the first staff photographer at The New Yorker, where his portraiture helped redefine the aesthetic of the magazine. During this period, his fashion photography appeared almost exclusively in the French magazine Égoïste. Throughout, Avedon ran a successful commercial studio, and is widely credited with erasing the line between "art" and "commercial" photography. His brand-defining work and long associations with Calvin Klein, Revlon, Versace, and dozens of other companies resulted in some of the best-known advertising campaigns in American history. These campaigns gave Avedon the freedom to pursue major projects in which he explored his cultural, political, and personal passions. He is known for his extended portraiture of the American Civil Rights movement, the Vietnam war and a celebrated cycle of photographs of his father, Jacob Israel Avedon. In 1976, for Rolling Stone magazine, he produced The Family, a collective portrait of the American power elite at the time of the country's bicentennial election. From 1979 to 1985, he worked extensively on a commission from the Amon Carter Museum of American Art, ultimately producing the show and book In the American West. Avedon's first museum retrospective was held at the Smithsonian Institution in 1962. Many major museum shows followed, including two at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (1978 and 2002), the Minneapolis Institute of Arts (1970), the Amon Carter Museum of American Art (1985), and the Whitney Museum of American Art (1994). His first book of photographs, Observations, with an essay by Truman Capote, was published in 1959. He continued to publish books of his works throughout his life, including Nothing Personal in 1964 (with an essay by James Baldwin), Portraits 1947-1977 (1978, with an essay by Harold Rosenberg), An Autobiography (1993), Evidence 1944-1994 (1994, with essays by Jane Livingston and Adam Gopnik), and The Sixties (1999, with interviews by Doon Arbus). After suffering a cerebral hemorrhage while on assignment for The New Yorker, Richard Avedon died in San Antonio, Texas on October 1, 2004. He established The Richard Avedon Foundation during his lifetime. Source: The Richard Avedon Foundation Born in New York, Richard Avedon attended city public schools and Columbia University, and served in the photographic section of the merchant marines. He studied under Alexey Brodovitch at the New School for Social Research from 1944 to 1950, and became the elder designer's protégé. Avedon was a staff photographer for Junior Bazaar and then Harper's Bazaar for some twenty years, and became a staff photographer at Vogue in 1966. In 1994 he was the first staff photographer hired by The New Yorker. For a photographer whose roots are in publication work, Avedon has been exceptionally successful in museums as well. He was included in the 1955 landmark exhibition The Family of Man at the Museum of Modern Art, and has received solo exhibitions at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C., the Museum of Modern Art, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and many other institutions. Most recently, the Whitney Museum of American Art presented Evidence: 1944-1994, a career retrospective of his work, and the International Center of Photography organized Avedon Fashion 1944–2000 in 2009. In 1993, Avedon received the Master of Photography Infinity Award from ICP. Since the late 1940s--when Avedon's blurred black-and-white portrait heads were acclaimed for capturing the raw dynamism of youth--his photography has changed to reflect the style, energy and dynamism of the moment. He helped set the standard for sleek, urbane elegance in mid-twentieth century fashion photography, and his gift for highlighting the allure and drama of his subjects has made him one of the most iconic photographers of the late twentieth century. Avedon maintains that "a photographic portrait is a picture of someone who knows he's being photographed, and what he does with this knowledge is as much a part of the photograph as what he's wearing or how he looks."Source: International Center of Photography
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